The Kona coast, on Hawaii’s western shore, divides into two distinct areas – the north with spectacular sandy beaches followed farther up by a long bleak slope of barren lava trails from dormant Mauna Kea all the way down to the sea. Southwards, the hillsides are more fertile and there is still a feel of the old Hawaii. The Big Island’s main resort is officially called Kailua, but mostly everyone simply refers to it as Kona, or Kailua-Kona. It is by far the island’s most developed area. Whilst the main road, Ali’i Drive, is lined with shops, hotels and condominiums, most of the shoreline vista remains intact thanks to low-rise buildings. To show just how fertile lava can be when tended, miles of multi-hued bougainvillea and poinsettias line Ali’i Drive like a colourful lei. East of town is the 8,271-foot (2,521-metre) Mount Hualalai, where local people still earn a living growing vegetables and taro on small farms spreading over the side of the mountain. In the centre of Kona stands the Hulihee Palace built as the governor’s residence in 1838. The relatively simple dwelling was heavily damaged during the last big storm and is now under restoration. The north end of downtown is home to Ahuena Heiau, where King Kamehameha spent the last years of his life. A dozen miles south of Kona at Kealakekua Bay is the site where Captain Cook was killed on his second voyage to Hawaii. South Kona is also the prime source of the famous Kona coffee.
Kailua-Kona is a town on the west coast of Hawaii Island (the Big Island). Hulihee Palace is a former royal vacation home dating from 1838. Mokuaikaua Church, from the 1800s, is Hawaii’s oldest Christian church. On Kailua Bay, reconstructed thatched houses at Kamakahonu National Historic Landmark mark King Kamehameha I’s residence. Colorful coral lies off Kamakahonu Beach. Kailua Pier has boat moorings.