Rome, Italy Overview
Details
Overview
-INTRODUCTION
Rome, Italy, seems to have its own gravitational pull, attracting not only millions of tourists each year, but also the most creative artists and thinkers of every era. All that surrounds a visitor in Rome the stunning art and architecture, the terrible traffic, the grandeur of scale and the lively (almost hyperanimated) citizens guarantees an unforgettable trip.
Known as The Eternal City, Rome is a supreme palimpsest. The ruins of pagan temples have become the foundations of Christian churches, ancient theaters have been made into medieval family fortresses, and Corinthian columns support new walls. The ages are layered, one atop the other, but the flow of Roman life is ever forward, with a respect for its glorious past.
Rome wasn’t built in a day, so don’t expect to see it in one. The historic center alone could absorb a week: the Michelangelo-designed Campidoglio, the Pantheon, the Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum, as well as the nearby Colosseum and Baths of Caracalla. The basilicas take a little longer because they are spread throughout the city.
If it’s Rome’s views you’re after, climb up into the dome of St. Peters or admire the panorama from the top of the Spanish Steps (better yet, from the Pincio Gardens above it) at sunset. Or survey the Forum at night from the Capitoline. Bustling, beautiful Rome, sprawling among its seven hills, is fascinating for both its ancient and its modern wonders.
Of course, not everyone immediately loves Rome: Some dislike the city’s untidiness and seeming disorganization. But give la citta eterna a chance to charm, or else risk missing something magnificent.
-MUST SEE OR DO
Sights
The ancient Forums, Palatino Hill, Foro di Traiano, Piazza del Campidoglio and Colosseo (the Colosseum); Basilica di San Pietro; the fountains of Piazza Navona; the Spanish Steps; The Pantheon; Trevi Fountain; Circo Massimo; the catacombs and monuments along the ancient Appian Way; Piazza del Popolo and the Pincio Gardens above it; Castel Sant'Angelo.
Museums
The Musei Vaticani and the Sistine Chapel; sculptures, frescoes and the Tabularium of the Musei Capitolini; phenomenal art at the Museo e Galleria Borghese; the privately owned Galleria Doria Pamphili; the unique paintings in Palazzo Barberini; the modern works at the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna e Contemporanea; the Etruscan treasures at the Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia; history's layers at the Museo Nazionale Romano Crypta Balbi.
Memorable Meals
Linguine with lobster sauce followed by baked turbot at Ristorante da Vincenzo; Mediterranean sushi at F.I.S.H.; fried fillet of codfish with zucchini flowers and artichokes guida at Piperno; sliced, aged beef with fresh basil and Parmesan cheese at Da Tullio; brusque service and celebrities in the Spartan Pizzeria Panattoni "Ai Marmi"; nouvelle cuisine at L'Antico Arco, atop the Gianicolo Hill; wandering the ancient streets with slices from any pizzeria al taglio (takeaway); a picnic from the gourmet deli Volpetti.
Late Night
Fine jazz at Alexanderplatz; kitsch at Jonathan's Angels; a quiet drink at the swanky Caffe della Pace; dancing at Zoobar or other Testaccio hot spots; late-night vistas from atop the Gianicolo Hill, at the electric Piazza Navona or while walking from Piazza Venezia to the Colosseum.
Walks
A leisurely walk from the top of the Spanish Steps to the Pincio Gardens at dusk; a daytime walk through the outdoor market at Campo dei Fiori; an excursion from the Trevi Fountain to the Pantheon before or after dinner; a nighttime trek to view the Colosseum and the ruins of the Forums beautifully illuminated; a midnight adventure through the medieval streets of Trastevere; a stroll in the picturesque open spaces of Villa Borghese and Villa Pamphili.
Especially for Kids
A visit to the Museo della Civilta Romana; the Bioparco zoo in Villa Borghese and its Children's Farm; the Explora Il Museo dei Bambini di Roma children's museum; go-karts on the Pincio; climbing the dome of Basilica di San Pietro; sticking your hand in La Bocca della Vertia (the Mouth of Truth) at Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin; searching for animals and other hidden pictures on fountains and monuments; indulging in gelato and pizza.
-GEOGRAPHY
For urban planners and traffic managers, Rome is a headache. Streets originally designed for horses now have to accommodate SUVs. Fortunately, visitors need only focus on navigating the city, not solving its traffic problems.
The city's historic center is the Centro Storico, it's on the left bank (east side) of the Tiber River (called the Tevere in Italian), and home to the original seven hills. The ancient political, spiritual and commercial heart of this area is the Campidoglio (Capitoline Hill) and the adjacent Foro Romano (Roman Forum). Nearby are the most important monuments of ancient Rome, including Trajan's Markets, the Imperial Forum, the Colosseum and the Arches of Constantine, Septimus Severus and Titus. To the south are Palatine Hill, Circus Maximus and, a bit farther, the Baths of Caracalla, the Appian Way and the Christian catacombs.
The city's main piazzas are also helpful for orientation. Piazza Venezia and the adjoining Piazza Campidoglio are just northwest of the Roman Forum, and Piazza Navona is still farther northwest. Piazza del Popolo is on the western edge of Villa Borghese, a large park northeast of the Centro Storico. Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps are just south of Piazza del Popolo. Connecting Via del Popolo and Piazza Venezia is Via del Corso, the city's main street.
On the right (west) bank of the Tiber, west of the Centro Storico, is Vatican City. To the south of the Vatican are Villa Doria Pamphili and Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill). The medieval neighborhood of Trastevere (literally, "across the Tiber") is between the Gianicolo and the river, nestled in the westward bend of the river across from Isola Tiberina, an island in the Tiber. On the east side of Tiberina is the old Jewish ghetto, which contains one of the largest synagogues in Europe, along with some of the best restaurants serving traditional Roman fare.
-HISTORY
Rome is nicknamed The Eternal City not merely for surviving almost 3,000 years, but also for retaining political, religious and artistic significance throughout that time. Legend has it that Rome was founded by Romulus in 753 BC, but archaeologists have found evidence of a much earlier Etruscan settlement. Fact and myth are difficult to untangle, but it's clear that Rome was already the major power in Latium by the time of the Republic's foundation in 509 BC. By the first century AD, Rome was dominating the Mediterranean through military conquest, cunning diplomacy and innovative political organization.
During the period of the late Republic, Julius Caesar and other generals extended the boundaries and glory of Rome, while simultaneously destroying its principles of government. The Roman Empire followed, remaining a heavyweight power for hundreds of years. Initially, literature flourished, with great emerging writers such as Cicero, Virgil, Catullus and Ovid. As the arts bloomed, however, the political structure crumbled. Squabbles and coups, as well as increased debauchery, eventually led to the Empire's division and fall.
In the first century AD, the apostles Peter and Paul arrived in Rome to proselytize, but they were martyred, along with hundreds of other Christians. Persecutions continued, on and off, until the Emperor Constantine legalized the faith in 312. The first Christian emperor also gave the Catholic Church temporal powers, beginning the papal state, which continued until the end of the 19th century (with occasional periods of foreign occupation). Papal coffers funded the projects of Michelangelo, Raphael and Bernini, the University of Rome and much of the city's infrastructure as well as the infamous inquisitions, beginning in the 12th century.
Benito Mussolini descended on Rome in 1922 and formed the world's first fascist government. When World War II broke out, the nation allied itself with Nazi Germany, but the Partigiani (Resistance) soon convinced most Italians to support the Allies. Rome's open-city status spared it from the destruction of bombing but did little to stop the massacres and pillaging by the Germans.
American troops liberated Rome on 4 June 1944, yet the city and country were destitute. The 1950s economic boom revived both, triggering the dolce vita, era of glamour. The capital steadily grew in cultural and political power. The city had a makeover for the Vatican's 2000 jubilee and now has a revitalized urban plan, improved infrastructure and massive restoration projects under way. Rome continues to bloom with art, architecture, culture, tourism and fine living.
-POTPOURRI
The Kingdom of Italy was proclaimed on 17 March 1861, but it was not finally unified until 1870.
The calendar we use today is more than 2,000 years old and was started by Julius Caesar. The month of July is, in fact, named after the emperor himself.
Italy celebrates 1 May as a national holiday, akin to the U.S. Labor Day; during this time, Rome hosts numerous music concerts, and international celebrities congregate in the city.
The games held to mark the inauguration of the Colosseum lasted for 100 days and nights, during which more than 5,000 animals were killed.
The historical center of Rome was frequently flooded by the Tiber River until retaining walls were built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Since then, the river has flooded the city only once, in 1937.
Italian children do not receive gifts only from Santa Claus. Until the last decade or so, Italian children primarily received presents from the Befana witch on the eve of 6 January, which is Epiphany or Twelfth Night. The tradition traces from pre-Christian times. Befana leaves a lump of coal (mostly candy shaped as coal), since no children are thought to have been good all year.
Romans have traditionally used "talking statues" to voice their opposition to corruption and abuses by tacking notes onto statues on busy streets. Although the practice has been largely abandoned, four important talking statues remain: The Pasquino (Piazza Pasquino), Marforio (Capitoline Museums), Babuino (Via Babuino) and Il Facchino (Via Lata).
Romans are among the most superstitious Italians. When Romans see a nun, they immediately touch iron to ward off bad luck; bird excrement on the shoe and hearing a cat sneeze are considered signs of good luck. In a restaurant, pouring from a bottle with your hand on the bottom, or failing to look your companion in the eye while clinking glasses together for a toast are both said to bring bad luck.
Things To Do
-SIGHTSEEING
Rome is a great open-air museum with a high concentration of monuments, churches and artwork, enmeshed in a modern city with a lot of fast cars, mopeds and people strolling around in very stylish shoes. Even the smallest courtyard hidden in the narrowest street may hold a tiny, wonderful detail—a decorated sidewalk or a stray column, fresco or fountain. To get the most out of your visit, you'll need to walk (but we recommend wearing comfortable shoes). Before setting off, stop by one of the information kiosks that dispense maps, brochures and advice in several languages.
Start in the historic heart of the city, called the Centro Storico. That's where you'll find the Imperial Forums, including the Roman Forum, Trajan's Column and Markets, and the Palatine Hill. Nearby are the Arch of Constantine, the Colosseum and the Circus Maximus. Then detour a bit to visit the palaces around Piazza del Campidoglio, which contain the Capitoline Museums.
On another day, explore the area between the Forums and Piazza del Popolo: You'll pass the facades of noble palaces and churches and stroll through elegant squares. Along the way, be sure to turn off the Via del Corso to visit the Pantheon to the west and the Trevi Fountain to the east. Once you reach Piazza del Popolo, take time to enjoy the green expanse of the Pincio Gardens. The nearby Villa Borghese is home not only to umbrella pines but also to three world-class museums: Galleria Borghese, Galleria Nazionale di Arte Moderna and Museo Nazionale di Villa Giulia.
World-famous examples of Christian and pre-Christian art and architecture are contained in St. Peter's Basilica and the Vatican Museums in Vatican City. The medieval district of Trastevere, across the river from the oldest part of Rome, has one of the oldest churches in Christendom, Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere. But it's also a great place to stroll, dine or shop, especially at night, when the bohemian streets come alive. Back across the river, on the left bank, the Jewish Ghetto is another medieval area full of ambience. If time permits, you can also visit the Catacombs of San Sebastiano or San Callisto or, invariably, one more church.
Be forewarned: Hours of admission for museums and historic sites sometimes change without notice. To save yourself stress, call to check times or reserve a time slot for something that is important to you. Booking at the Vatican Museums can save hours in waiting time, and reservations are compulsory at the Galleria Borghese. To enter churches, women must have their shoulders covered and men must have their knees covered. As a rule, most churches are open in the morning, close around 12:30 pm for lunch and reopen at 3:30 pm. Keep these guidelines in mind and you'll avoid the dreaded chiuso (closed) sign.
One way to make planning easier is to use a ticket broker that specializes in booking museums and historic sites. Pierreci books visits to museums and guided tours to landmarks in the city (http://www.pierreci.it). Ticketeria books tickets to museums and landmarks, as well (phone 06-32810 Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm, Saturday 9 am-1 pm; http://www.ticketeria.it). Whether you book by phone or online, get a confirmation number for your reservation and take it with you. You will be charged a booking fee, but it's worth it for the convenience.
The city of Rome has a wide selection of passes that offer discounts on admission to many of the most popular historic sites, museums and galleries. The Roma Pass is the most popular option: 30 euros gets you free admission to two sites (including the Colosseum, with the added benefit of getting to skip the long line), three-day public transportation passes and reduced rates at subsequent sites. Purchase passes at tourist offices, most participating museums and galleries or online. http://www.romapass.it.
-RECREATION
Rome's mild climate permits year-round outdoor activity, but the city's recreational pickings are pretty slim. City parks, especially Villa Borghese and Villa Pamphili, are the best spots for walking, running, in-line skating or biking. Tennis and golf are a bit more challenging: They're relatively expensive and inaccessible.
Out of the city, Lago Bracciano and the coastal town of Lido di Ostia are two good spots for watersports, and the thermal spa Terme dei Papi in Viterbo is a favorite getaway for Romans. On Sunday, Via Appia Antica is closed to traffic, and the Appia Antica Park becomes a wonderful place to picnic, stroll among the monuments and bike.
-NIGHTLIFE
Fellini's La Dolce Vita depicted a lifestyle of savoring the city's sidewalk cafes and nightclubs—a portrayal that's still very accurate today. A typical Roman evening begins with a late dinner, followed by the passeggiata (a stroll). This involves strolling through the piazzas of the city and stopping for coffee, gelato or a drink at a local pub or enoteca (wine bar). Nightclubs remain virtually empty until about 1 am. The majority of bars close at 2 am, with nightclubs shuttering around 4 am. However, this only means they stop entry. People already inside are permitted to stay until dawn, or even longer.
Nightspots are present throughout the city. The Centro Storico offers a wide range of bars, primarily filled with tourists (the Campo dei Fiori is especially popular). Trastevere is the spot for locals and students, with literally hundreds of bars and restaurants, dozens of movie theaters and a few nightclubs, all in an accessible, pedestrian-friendly area. Most clubs are in remote corners of the city. The Testaccio area near the Piramide metro stop is one exception. Late-night restaurants and bars flank some of the best dance spots. Don't dally on the streets at night at the risk of being pickpocketed.
The city's live-music scene gets hopping late, with everything from South American rhythms to jazz.
-PERFORMING ARTS
Rome's greatest strength in the performing arts is perhaps in the theater, but almost all offerings are in Italian. (English-language productions are sometimes put on at Teatro Agora, Teatro dell'Arte and Teatro Ghione.) Rome's opera standards are also high, and dance companies, both classical and modern, perform to packed houses.
When it comes to classical music, Rome can't rival London or New York in terms of the sheer number of concerts, but the scene maintains high standards. Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, the major hall in Rome, hosts many symphonic and chamber-music concerts, and Teatro dell'Opera also hosts well-known international dance companies. Concerts are also presented in churches and historic sites. Performing-arts schedules are promoted in local papers and billboards, and advertisements posted on buildings in the Centro Storico announce upcoming performances.
Nearby Cinecitta (Film City) has served as the studio for some great Hollywood epics, as well as for some Italian directors such as Fellini and Rossellini, and it is now periodically open to the public (http://www.cinecitta.it). Rome taps into the tradition with a large supply of cinemas, including several that screen movies in their original language. There are also a number of national and international film festivals in town. And during the summer months, two outdoor cinemas usually shine, each with a single screening just after sunset. One is near the Colosseum, and the other is on Tibertina Island. For more information, ask at the tourist information booths or check Roma C'e.
-SPECTATOR SPORTS
Romans are known for passionately following soccer, tennis, cycling and horse racing. Soccer, called calcio, is the Italian national sport, played September-June. Sunday afternoon is the traditional time for home games of the local contenders, Roma and Lazio. Horse races take place at Le Capannelle on Sunday.
The Rome Marathon in March is picking up steam as an internationally recognized event. The city dresses for the occasion, and some of the best runners in the world compete.
-SHOPPING
Rome's trendy stores with the latest fashions just might divert you from seeing one more museum. Fans of Prada, Fendi, Ferragamo or Gucci will have plenty to choose from. What's more, those famous brands, which are available around the world, will seem different: Even the designers known for the purity of their lines Armani, for instance seem to offer something a little more baroque in Rome. But the true joy of shopping in this city lies in discovering one-of-a-kind items in specialty shops. Hundreds of such stores sell goods, particularly shoes and clothing accessories, that are produced on-site, often using centuries-old techniques.
Beyond the world of high fashion, you can check out the upscale secondhand shops on Via del Governo Vecchio, the artisan studios of Trastevere and the galleries of Monti. Rome also has a handful of markets, each with a distinctive style. The colorful and inviting Campo dei Fiori offers cheeses, spices, some clothing, kitchenware and, of course, flowers (the name means field of flowers). The Sunday flea market at Porta Portese, the largest in Europe, is not for the faint of heart shoppers are packed in so tightly it becomes an effort just to stop or cross the street. Go early and beware of pickpockets.
Much of Rome, and indeed, Italy shuts down for several weeks in the summer heat. This period, known as Ferragosto, can stretch from mid-July through August. The one advantage: superb sales beforehand.
Shopping Hours: Stores are generally open Monday-Saturday 9 am-1 pm and 4:30-7:30 pm. Most stores are closed all day Sunday, and some take Monday morning off, as well. The exception is the Centro Storico, where a seven-day shopping culture is emerging. In winter, many boutiques have reduced hours, although most open their doors until 8:30 or 9 pm two weeks before Christmas.
Dining
-DINING OVERVIEW
Each region of Italy boasts its own distinctive cuisine, and because Rome has become home to Italians from all over the country, the city's native, rustic cuisine has been influenced by many different sources. For a true taste of the indigenous cucina povera (food of the poor people) be sure to sample the food at a number of humble trattorias, not just the upscale restaurants. Classic dishes include spaghetti carbonara, bucatini all'amatriciana (straw-shaped noodles in a tomato and bacon sauce), l'abbacchio (roast lamb), carciofi alla giudia (deep-fried artichokes) and the most Roman of all: trippa (tripe).
Tuscan and Sicilian restaurants usually provide more elegant meals and refined dining. Begin with an antipasto of marinated vegetables, seafood, bruschetta or a selection of meats. Prosciutto crudo is often served with melon or figs in the summer. The first course is almost always a pasta dish, such as penne all'arrabiata (quills with a chili-tomato sauce), linguini con vongole veraci (linguine with clam sauce) or pasta e fagioli (short pasta cooked in a thick bean soup). For a second (main) course, try rombo (turbot), spigola (sea bass) or straccetti con basilico e parmigiano (thin-sliced beef topped with fresh rocket lettuce and Parmesan cheese).
Italian meals typically run five courses from antipasti to dolce (dessert), followed by coffee and a digestivo. Visitors are under no obligation to order all of them. However, two courses is the polite minimum at a busy establishment. Given the leisurely pace of dining, you've "bought the table for the evening" don't abuse such hospitality by ordering only a salad. Light eaters should try fancier places for lunch or retreat to a cafe, cafeteria (tavola calda), pizzeria or slice shop (pizza al taglio). The latter also can provide a great snack on the go; while you're there, sample the suppli (deep-fried rice balls with tomato sauce and a molten mozzarella core). Be aware that sitting at a tavola calda will increase the price of your meal; order your lunch portare via (to take away).
The region's most famous wines are the dry whites, Vini dei Castelli (Frascati, Genzano, Marino and Velletri). To accompany meat dishes, choose a full-bodied dry red from the regions of Tuscany or Piemonte, or one of the reds from up-and-coming wine regions such as Sicily or Umbria. Romans typically order a carafe of house wine (vino della casa) usually from the countryside near Rome in the case of whites and from the adjacent region of Abruzzo for reds selections are usually decent and reasonably priced. Be forewarned, however: The liter unit is 25% larger than a typical bottle and public drunkenness is frowned upon (half- and quarter-liters are also available).
The main local beers are Peroni, Moretti and Nastro Azurro, which are well-made lagers on the lighter side, fans of heavier beers will have to opt for an import. Order acqua naturale (flat water) or frizzante (sparkling) with each meal. Other nonalcoholic treats include fresh-squeezed juice (spremuta) and lemonade (limonata).
Italian coffee is ubiquitous and unmissable. Even those who normally dislike espresso may appreciate the smooth genuine version. Barristi brew dozens of variations of the simple shot (order un caffe and not un espresso in Rome). At more casual establishments, pay at the register (la cassa), and then present the receipt (gli scontrino) at the counter, with a small coin (0.10 or 0.20 euros) on top as a tip. Table service can increase the price, by as much as 500% in a tourist hot spot. Also note that locals drink cappuccino only for breakfast, never in the evening or after meals. Gelato, the heavenly Italian ice cream, is appropriate any time of the day or night.
Modern life has trimmed the traditional five meals a day. Italians aren't generally big on breakfast (usually cappuccino with a sugar-glazed croissant or a cream-filled pastry), but brunch is popular. Lunch, around 1 pm, can consist of one course or several (restaurants close 3-7 pm, so don't wait). Dinner can be either a leisurely affair with several courses or just pizza and beer.
Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a three-course dinner for one, not including drinks or tip: $ = less than 25 euros; $$ = 25 euros-40 euros; $$$ = 41 euros-75 euros; and $$$$ = more than 75 euros.
Tax is almost always included in the price of meals. The bill (conto) may feature pane e coperto (bread and a cover charge) or servizio (service). Tip 5% atop the coperto or 10%-12% otherwise (Italians offer less, but tourists are expected to be gracious).
-LOCAL & REGIONAL
Agata e Romeo
What started in 1890 as a weekly dinner of roast pork at Agata's grandparents' house evolved over the years into one of Rome's finest dining experiences. The menu is created entirely by Agata, who is a local chef celebrity with her own cookbook line. Romeo (her husband) handles the extensive wine cellar and never misses when pairing wines to food. Ingredients are traditional Roman staples, but the creativity in preparation takes them far beyond. Staples include Agata's sformato di formaggio di fossa (a souffle-tart made with sheep's cheese that has been aged in special caves in northern Italy), and risotto with quail eggs, asparagus and crumbly prosciutto. Desserts include Agata's millefoglie chocolate invention. Open Monday and Saturday for dinner only, Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$.
Address: Via Carlo Alberto 45 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-446-6115
http://www.agataeromeo.it
Ambasciata d'Abruzzo
This restaurant showcases fare from the mountainous Abruzzo region, east of Rome. The bruschetta appetizers are among the city's best, proving that toast-with-toppings can reach culinary heights. The maccheroni alla chitarra cacio e pepe (elbow pasta with sheep's cheese and pepper) is another standout. Porcini mushrooms and truffles feature heavily never a bad thing. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards.
Address Via Pietro Tacchini 26 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-807-8256
http://www.ambasciatadiabruzzo.com
Ambasciata di Capri
This wonderful restaurant close to the Vatican serves delicious specialties from the island of Capri, including black ravioli with cuttlefish, and the pezzogna, a tender fish that only swims in the waters of the Gulf of Naples. But the dolci make the fame of this restaurant, and rumor has it that owner Mario Tarantino sends a selection of them to the pope once a month. Try the ricotta tart with pears, the tiramisu and the wonderful pastiera, a short crust cake with ricotta and buffalo-milk cheese. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards.
http://www.ambasciatadicapri.com.
Address Via E.Q. Visconti 52 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-332-6812
http://www.ambasciatadicapri.com
Asino Cotto
Tucked into a romantic back corner on the quiet side of Trastevere, this gourmet staple is really a showcase for master chef Giulianno Brenna. His creations transform seasonal ingredients into succulent dishes that he personally explains to diners with great care. Dishes carre di agnello al te' verde, cedro e coriandolo (roasted rack of lamb with green tea, cedar and coriander) are coupled with such desserts as mousse di cioccolato "Santo Domingo" con sedano sciroppato (Santo Domingo chocolate mousse with celery syrup). Don't be surprised if he comes out after you've eaten to see if you liked what he prepared. This is a restaurant for couples and not a place for children. Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for dinner only. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards.
Address Via dei Vascellari 48 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-589-8985
http://www.asinocotto.com
Boccondivino
In the heart of the Campo Marte, the urban decor of this trendy restaurant defies its stoic 16th-century surroundings with zebra-skin chairs and burlap table coverings. But the food sticks to its Roman roots as seasonal market offerings take shape in delicious risottos and colorful pastas. Seafood dishes, think salmon drizzled with citrus marinade dominate the menu. The restaurant is filled with politicians who work at the government complex nearby. Open Monday for dinner only, Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards.
Address Piazza Campo Marzio 6 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-683-08626
http://www.boccondivino.it
Camponeschi
This upscale restaurant is near the Michelangelo-designed Palazzo Farnese, which now houses the French Embassy. Try the fusilli calabresi (corkscrew pasta with fresh tomatoes and eggplant sauce) or, if you favor fresh seafood, maltagliati all'astice (short, flat pasta with lobster sauce). For an entree, ask for rosette con carciofi (veal with artichokes) or agnello al rosmarino (lamb with rosemary). There's a wide selection of rich, creamy desserts. Open Monday-Saturday for dinner. The wine bar next door is open Monday-Saturday 7:30 pm-1 am. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards.
Address Piazza Farnese 50a Rome, Italy
Phone 06-687-4927
http://www.ristorantecamponeschi.it
Checchino dal 1887
Few restaurants can still claim to preserve and serve, traditional Roman food as Checchino has been doing since 1887. Its claim to fame is the invention of la coda alla vaccinara a distinctive dish made from less-popular cuts of meat. It carries the official cucinaromana designation. Excellent wine list. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Closed in August and for a week around Christmas. Reservations required. No shorts or tank tops allowed. $$$. Most major credit cards.
Address Via Monte Testaccio 30 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-574-3816
http://www.checchino-dal-1887.com
Colline Emiliane
Try the mouthwatering classic Bolognese dishes in this tiny, but very popular, family-run restaurant just off Bernini's Triton Fountain. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. Reservations required. $$$.
Phone 06-481-7538.
Address Via degli Avignonesi 22 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-481-7538
Dal Bolognese
This is one of a small handful of restaurants in Rome where the menu lives up to its chic reputation. Popular with Italian television and film stars as well as international gourmands. Try the misto di pasta (four kinds of pasta on one plate) as a first course, and graduate to any of the restaurant's signature veal dishes. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Closed for three weeks in August. Reservations required. $$$$.
Address Piazza del Popolo 1 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-361-1426
Enoteca Corsi
One of the best and least pretentious, places to eat lunch in the normally pricey center. The look of the place is virtually unchanged since it opened its doors in 1943, and it is a favorite of local businesspeople and power brokers, as well as students and blue-collar workers. Prices are very reasonable, and the menu is limited to a few tasty choices each day, scrawled on wall-hung chalkboards (wonderful gnocchi and great saltimbocca alla romana). Go to the back and turn to the right for the wine store, which has a few extra tables in it and a still-more-charming atmosphere. Wine is also available to take away. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch. The wine store is open Monday-Saturday 9 am-1 pm and 5-8 pm. Reservations not accepted except for large parties. $. No credit cards.
Address Via del Gesu 88 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-679-0821
http://www.enotecacorsi.com
Enoteca Ferrara
This enchanting enoteca in the heart of Trastevere started out as a tiny, backstreet hole-in-the-wall wine bar owned by two sisters and has grown to encompass most of the bottom floor of a medieval palazzo. View the expansive wine cellar from the glass floor in the main bar, or head straight to the dining area where recipes inspired by the old tradition of the cucina povera ("poor man's kitchen") are reinvented into modern fare. Sicilian dishes (involtini of pesce spada, or swordfish rolls) and northern delights (thick vegetable soups) are the best offerings. Open daily for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Address Via del Moro 1a Rome, Italy (there is a second entrance at Piazza Trilussa 41)
Phone 06-5833-3920
http://www.enotecaferrara.it
Felice a Testaccio
One of the tastiest and most colorful restaurants in the city center's working-class district. The restaurant was established in 1936 by legendary restaurateur Felice Trivelloni, who was temperamental enough to deny a second course to diners who didn't finish their first. But not finishing the first is tough: the pasta is to die for, try the simple and addictive Pasta al Felice (ricotta, tomatoes, mint and chili) and the suckling lamb served in cooler months is unforgettable. Oscar-winning actor Roberto Benigni adored the restaurant so much he wrote a poem in its honor. It's still run by the Trivelloni family. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations are required and rarely accepted the day of the meal. $$-$$$. Visa and MasterCard accepted.
Address Via Mastro Giorgio 29 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-574-6800
http://www.feliceatestaccio.com
Gino al Villino
This small trattoria has been around since 1958, kept secret by its location just outside the city center. Don't expect the servers to speak English, but do look forward to some of the best Roman cooking possible. The menu changes daily, and the chef's inventions are always worth trying. However, staples include polenta con salsiccia (polenta and Roman sausages) and gnocchi al parmigiano (potato-based dumplings in a parmigiano sauce). Adventurous diners sometimes continue with la trippa (tripe in a tomato and cheese sauce). Open daily except Wednesday for lunch and dinner. Closed for two weeks in August. $. Most major credit cards.
Address Largo Alessandrina Ravizza 12 Rome, Italy (take Tram 8 to the Ravizza stop)
Phone 06-582-33-977
Giovanni
A kind and efficient family from the Marche region owns this pleasant, comfortable restaurant. It has been tastefully redecorated and brought up to standard for disabled access. The cuisine is delicate and simple. Ask for the traditional tagliolini al sugo di carne (house-made pasta with red meat sauce) or the lentil soup. For dessert, savor the millefoglie (multilayered, cream-filled puff pastry). Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner; closed Sunday and in August. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards.
Address Via Marche 64 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-482-1834
http://www.ristorantegiovanni.net
'Gusto
A leader in the multimedia trend, 'Gusto is a large space with shopping, a wine bar, a pizzeria, a restaurant and live music at night and, of course, brunch. The fare is on the lighter side, with options ranging from soups and salads to pasta and couscous. Daily for brunch, lunch and dinner till 1 am. Live music after 11 pm Tuesday and Thursday. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards.
Address Piazza Augusto Imperatore 7 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-322-6273
http://www.gusto.it
Hostaria Antica Roma
Dining on the Appian Way, you'll be surrounded by Roman ruins one wall of a dining room is actually an ancient columbarium, which held ashes of the deceased. Hostaria Antica Roma is an ideal choice when visiting the Catacombs of San Callisto, but otherwise it's out of the way. For a full, historically accurate Roman menu, diners must reserve three days in advance, but some elements of the menu are always available. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$-$$$$. Most major credit cards.
Address Via Appia Antica 87 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-513-2888
http://www.anticaroma.it
Hostaria dell'Orso di Guantiero Marchesi
One of the icons of the Roman dining scene, the Hosteria dell'Orso is a gem located in an opulent 15th-century palace with a view of the Tiber. It has been a favorite of dignitaries ranging from Goethe to Clark Gable, and is known for its contrast of ancient architecture, modern furnishings and an unforgettable menu that includes a tasty seared scallop salad with ginger, and homemade tortelli with pumpkin and marjoram. The wine list is impressive. Monday-Saturday for dinner. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
Address Via dei Soldati 25c Rome, Italy
Phone 06-6830-1192
http://www.hdo.it
Il Drappo
Long, flowing draperies give this gracious Sardinian restaurant in Centro Storico a homey touch. Try the zuppa di carciofi (artichoke soup), maialino arrosto (roast suckling pig) or calamari ripieni (stuffed baby squid). Top things off with the fruit pie. Dine in Il Drappo's garden or in the air-conditioned dining room. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards.
Address Vicolo del Malpasso 9 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-687-7365
http://www.ristoranteildrappo.com
L'Antico Arco
This vine-swathed restaurant attracts foodies with its slightly nouvelle flavors, 400 wines and homemade Sicilian cassata dessert. The seasonal menu is graced by such delights as spaghetti cacio e pepe con fiori di zucca crocanti (spaghetti with aged cheese, pepper and fried zucchini flowers), carpaccio caldo con i carciofi (sautéed beef served on a bed of artichokes) and petti di faraona con tartufi (quail breasts with shredded truffle and a potato tart). The gracious 18th-century building stands on the hill above Trastevere, next to the renowned Bar Gianicolo and the Porta San Pancrazio, a pink and white triumphal arch. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Closed two weeks in August. Reservations should be made a week in advance. $$$. Most major credit cards.
Address Piazzale Aurelio 7 Rome, Italy 152
Phone 06-581-5274
http://www.anticoarco.it
La Pariolina
This modern and stylish eatery specializes in gourmet pizzas both the Roman thin-crust and the Neapolitan fluffy-crust varieties. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$.
Address Viale Parioli 93 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-808-6002
http://www.lapariolina.com
La Pergola
This restaurant with three Michelin stars may be one of the grandest in all of Italy, boasting a panoramic view of the city, a mouthwatering menu that changes seasonally and a world-class wine list. Every detail is considered: Flanders linen, fine porcelain and a well-trained waitstaff that works so seamlessly it's been compared to a Russian ballet. Everything is so well done that it's possible for diners to close their eyes and simply point to the menu for an unforgettable choice, but the best option may be to ask the advice of the knowledgeable, friendly and multilingual staff. A five- or seven-course wine tasting menu is offered most nights. Open Tuesday-Saturday for dinner. Reservations must be made at least a month in advance. Dress formally. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
Address Via Cadlolo 101 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-3509-2152
http://www.romecavalieri.com/lapergola.php
La Taverna del Ghetto Kosher
In the heart of the Jewish Quarter, this restaurant serves typical Jewish-Roman dishes. Kosher Italian cuisine is not well-known outside of Italy, but many Romans consider it the best example of the city's culinary traditions. If it's serving tortino di alicotti all'indivia, be sure to try it. Open daily except Friday for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards.
Address Via Portico d'Ottavia 8 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-6880-9771
http://www.latavernadelghetto.com
La Terazza dell'Eden
The understated rooftop restaurant in the stylish Hotel Eden is an island of tranquility between the hustle and bustle of the Spanish Steps and the Via Veneto. Traditional Italian pastas, seafood and meat courses are prepared with a particularly delicate hand. Combined with a spectacular view of the city, La Terazza is a highlight of the Roman dining experience. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
Address Via Ludovisi 49 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-4781-2752
http://www.laterrazzadelleden.com
Open Colonna
Atop Rome's Palazzo delle Esposizioni off Via Nazionale sits the glass-encased Open Colonna, the Roman location for chef Antonio Colonna, who for years ran one of the most important destination restaurants, a day trip away from Rome. At lunch, the restaurant offers a reasonably priced buffet of well-prepared traditional favorites, and at night the space is transformed into one of the city's most decadent eateries. Reserve at least a week in advance. Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch only. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards.
Address Scalinata di via Milano 9a Rome, Italy
Phone 06-4782-2641
http://www.antonellocolonna.it
Osteria Margutta
This impossibly romantic restaurant is located on a charming street. The all-red Ostaria Margutta serves specialties such as linguine and prawns, tortellini made in-house and baked turbot with potatoes, all in a candlelit setting. Changing art exhibits add to the decor. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards.
Address Via Margutta 82 Rome, Italy
Phone 06-323-1025
http://www.osteriamargutta.it
Palazzetto International Wine Academy
Go for the views of the Spanish Steps, but stay for the gourmet cuisine served there in Rome's largest wine bar. The International Wine Academy has become the leading wine school in the city. Food is prepared to go with the wine, not the other way around. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Terrace bar open noon-7 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. All major credit cards. Vicolo del Bottino 8, Rome. Phone 06-69934-1000. http://www.ilpalazzettoroma.com.
Address
Vicolo del Bottino 8
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-69934-1000
http://www.ilpalazzettoroma.com
Piperno
This well-known destination in the old Jewish Quarter is famous for its beautiful carciofi alla giudia (deep-fried artichokes) and fritto misto (mixed fried meat, fish and vegetables). The wonderful and elegant cuisine is matched by the historically significant setting, secluded in a little piazza engulfed by the Palazzo Cenci. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. Closed August. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via Monte de' Cenci 9, Rome. Phone 06-6880-6629. http://www.ristorantepiperno.com.
Address
Via Monte de' Cenci 9
Rome, Italy 186
Phone 06-6880-6629
http://www.ristorantepiperno.com
Pizzeria La Montecarlo
In summer, the alley outside this pizzeria is filled with tables of boisterous Romans. In winter, the crowds move indoors, where the walls display hundreds of photos of Italy's most famous actors, singers, writers and politicians posing with the staff. The service is faster than it is polite, but the pizzas are great, the pasta is some of the best in Rome, and the price is fair for the quality. Start with a plate of fritti misti, which includes the most traditional Roman appetizers: fried zucchini flowers with anchovies, suppli (rice balls stuffed with mozzarella and tomato, breaded and fried) and olive ascolane (fried olives stuffed with pork). Then try the calzone (pizza folded over on itself and filled with ham, cheese and egg) or the best carbonara (pasta in an egg-and-bacon sauce, with lots of black pepper and Parmesan) in Rome. Finally, finish with tiramisu. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Closed for two weeks in August. $. No credit cards. Vicolo Savelli 13 (near Piazza Navona), Rome. Phone 06-686-1877. http://www.lamontecarlo.it.
Address
Vicolo Savelli 13
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-686-1877
http://www.lamontecarlo.it
Pizzeria Panattoni "Ai Marmi"
This pizzeria, probably the best-known in Rome, is commonly called l'obitorio, "the morgue," because of its minimalist interior. Rectangular marble tables fill the large, white room. Despite the simple decor, it's packed most nights with lively crowds, often including celebrities. The wood-burning oven is in the corner, so you can watch the hypnotizing pizza-making process. Open daily except Wednesday for dinner. Reservations not accepted. $. No credit cards. Viale Trastevere 53-59 (Trastevere), Rome. Phone 06-580-0919.
Address
Viale Trastevere 53-59
Rome, Italy 153
Phone 06-580-0919
Primo al Pigneto
From an unlikely location (until recently, Pigneto, just beyond San Giovanni, was an undesirable neighborhood of Rome) emerges one of the city's culinary hot spots, with creative interpretations of classic dishes that change with the seasons. Ask for an outdoor table in the summer to get a feel for the bohemian area. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via del Pigneto 46, Rome. Phone 06-701-3827. http://www.primoalpigneto.it.
Address
Via del Pigneto 46
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-701-3827
http://www.primoalpigneto.it
Ristorante '34'
This small restaurant is tucked between the shops where big-name designers sell handbags and shoes. It serves up first-rate Roman dishes. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Via Mario de Fiori 34 (near the Spanish Steps), Rome. Phone 06-679-5091. http://www.ristoranteal34.it.
Address
Via Mario de Fiori 34
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-679-5091
http://www.ristoranteal34.it
Santopadre
The after-theater crowd gathers in this restaurant that's both rustic and elegant. Traditional Roman specialties include il cartoccio vegetale (seasonal vegetables baked in a bag) and tagliata di manzo (aged beef sliced and served on a bed of arugula and tomato wedges). Every Tuesday and Friday, fish selections augment the menu. Open Monday-Saturday for dinner. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Via Collina 18, Rome. Phone 06-474-5405.
Address
Via Collina 18
Rome, Italy 187
Phone 06-474-5405
Taverna Giulia
This lovely, comfortable restaurant serves traditional Ligurian food on a quiet street at the north end of beautiful Via Giulia. At the top of the list are the dishes made with Genovese pesto, such as gnocchi and lasagna, as well as the delicate torta pasqualina, a vegetable dish with layers of pastry. Creme brulee is a favorite dessert. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Vicolo dell'Oro 23, Rome. Phone 06-686-9768. http://www.tavernagiulia.it.
Address
Vicolo dell'Oro 23
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-686-9768
http://www.tavernagiulia.it
Taverna Trilussa
This bustling Trastevere eatery is so Roman that the menu is written in the local dialect (a charmingly translated English-language version is available on request). A mix of Romans and occasional visitors make up the crowd served by an experienced and helpful waitstaff and a menu ranging from traditional pasta and meat dishes to signature local dishes. Try the ravioli mimosa, the taverna's signature dish. Second-course dishes can be made from imported beef, and the millefoglie dessert is delicious. There are two wine lists: one focusing on underrated regional bottles, another focusing on the rest of Italy and a few foreign choices. Open Monday-Saturday from 7 pm. $$-$$$. Visa and MasterCard accepted. Via del Politeama 23 (Trastevere), Rome. Phone 06-581-8918. http://www.tavernatrilussa.com.
Address
Via del Politeama 23
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-581-8918
http://www.tavernatrilussa.com
Tram Tram
The name of this bustling little eatery comes from the tram that passes in front of the establishment and the old-fashioned wooden tram seats in the smaller of the two dining areas. In the traditional Roman neighborhood of San Lorenzo, Tram Tram's Puglian-inspired cuisine is loved by locals, but it's a little too far off the beaten track for most tourists. The restaurant is crowded and service is uneven at best, but the food is wonderful and the bill is refreshingly free of sticker shock. Try the pappardella Tram Tram, noodles in a sauce of lamb strips and roasted peppers. The wine list is ample with many unusual choices for the adventurous. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Via dei Reti 44, Rome. Phone 06-490-416. http://www.ristorantetramtramroma.com.
Address
Via dei Reti 44
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-490-416
http://www.ristorantetramtramroma.com
Trattoria da Giggetto al Portico d'Ottavia
Just short of becoming a Rome cliche, this landmark eatery nevertheless features a tasty menu served with a breathtaking backdrop, the portico of Ottavia. Still family-run, still using authentic Jewish-Roman recipes, it bears the official cucinaromana designation. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via del Portico d'Ottavia 21A (near the Theater of Marcellus), Rome. Phone 06-686-1105. http://www.giggetto.it.
Address
Via del Portico d'Ottavia 21A
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-686-1105
http://www.giggetto.it
Trattoria Monti
Unpretentious and intimate, this enjoyable trattoria, operated by brothers Enrico and Daniele, features well-prepared and delicate dishes inspired by their native region of Le Marche. Try the delightful Parmesan custard. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. Closed for two weeks around Easter and Christmas and for the month of August. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Via di San Vito 13, Rome. Phone 06-446-6573.
Address
Via di San Vito 13
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-446-6573
-VEGETARIAN
Il Margutta
Vegetarian restaurants are sparse in Rome, but Il Margutta is a refined, haute option. Its cooks use only organic vegetables and wines for its contemporary dishes, prepared in a sleek, modern setting. Even carnivores are favorably impressed with the rich, complex offerings. You may recognize this lovely street, near the Spanish Steps, from the movie Roman Holiday. Jazz concerts are held most Tuesdays after dinner. On Sunday and holidays, the "festivity brunch" offers a buffet and live music for 25 euros. Daily for brunch, lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via Margutta 118, Rome. Phone 06-3265-0577. http://www.ilmargutta.it.
Address
Via Margutta 118
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-3265-0577
http://www.ilmargutta.it
-BREAKFAST & BRUNCH
Bibli
A relaxing cafe and bookstore in the Trastevere area, Bibli serves a light breakfast buffet on Saturday morning and a full brunch Sunday starting at 12:30 pm. It's small but comfortable if you can get a table. In the afternoon and evening, there are poetry readings and live acoustic music. Daily for lunch, afternoon tea and dinner; Saturday and Sunday for brunch also. $. Most major credit cards. Via dei Fienaroli 28 (Trastevere), Rome. Phone 06-581-4534. http://www.bibli.it.
Address
Via dei Fienaroli 28
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-581-4534
http://www.bibli.it
Chiostro del Bramante
The cloisters that surrounded a 16th-century church now serve as a venue for some of Rome's most exclusive exhibitions and conferences. This fabulous structure, complete with colonnades and Raffaelo's fresco Le Sibille, is interesting enough as a museum, but on Saturday and Sunday (10 am-3 pm), it also serves one of the best brunches in Rome for 28 euros. Bistro open daily 10 am-8 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Via Arco della Pace 5 (the street leads to the front door; there is no number), Rome. Phone 06-6880-9035. http://www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Address
Via Arco della Pace 5
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-6880-9035
http://www.chiostrodelbramante.it
Doney
Every Sunday, the Excelsior's restaurant hosts an elegant brunch with exquisite food and wines. A lunch buffet (38 euros excluding drinks) is served Monday-Friday. Sunday brunch is served 12:30-3 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Brunch is 50 euros (including a glass of spumante, but not wine). Most major credit cards. Via Vittorio Veneto 137, Rome. Phone 06-4708-2783. http://www.westin.com/excelsiorrome.
Address
Via Vittorio Veneto 137
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-4708-2783
http://www.westin.com/excelsiorrome
-COFFEEHOUSES
La Casa del Caffe Tazza d'Oro
Some of the world's best coffee is worth the wait (up to 15 minutes in high tourist season). The cappuccino is to die for. When lines are small, the staff can prepare a shakerato (iced coffee with sugar, shaken like a cocktail until it becomes thick and frothy). Coffee ground on-site is available for purchase and can be shipped worldwide. Open Monday-Saturday 7 am-8 pm. $. Most major credit cards, though there is a minimum charge of 5 euros. Via degli Orfani 84 (around the corner from the Pantheon), Rome. Phone 06-679-2768. http://www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com.
Address
Via degli Orfani 84
Rome, Italy 186
Phone 06-679-2768
http://www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com
Sant'Eustachio il Caffe
Since it opened in 1938, this cafe has become famous among Romans for its unique coffee. The baristi must sign an agreement not to divulge the secret of its preparation, and the position of the espresso machines hides the process from view. Ask for the zuccherato (with sugar). Beans ground on-site are available for purchase and can be shipped worldwide. Educational courses about coffee are also offered. Open daily 8:30 am-1 am (stays open slightly later on Friday and Saturday). $. No credit cards. Piazza Sant'Eustachio 82, Rome. Phone 06-6880-2048. http://www.santeustachioilcaffe.it.
Address
Piazza Sant'Eustachio 82
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-6880-2048
http://www.santeustachioilcaffe.it
-SEAFOOD
F.I.S.H.
Rome's Fine International Seafood House offers something for all seafood aficionados. On one side of the restaurant, French oysters and Japanese sushi dominate the raw menu. On the other side, Asian- and Mediterranean-inspired cooked seafood reigns. The house favorites are Tris Tar Tar, tuna spezzatino and the exotic fruit platter. Open daily except Monday for dinner. $$. Major credit cards. Via dei Serpenti 16, Rome. Phone 06-4782-4962. http://www.f-i-s-h.it.
Address
Via dei Serpenti 16
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-4782-4962
http://www.f-i-s-h.it
La Rosetta
A famous restaurant just off the Pantheon, this place is considered by many to be the finest seafood restaurant in Rome. Go expecting a culinary treat and a lengthy meal. Dinner is expensive; the food at lunch is just as good and the prices far more reasonable. Try the fish soup. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for dinner only. Reservations recommended. Dress up for dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Via della Rosetta 8, Rome. Phone 06-686-1002. http://www.larosetta.com.
Address
Via della Rosetta 8
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-686-1002
http://www.larosetta.com
Pierluigi
A popular source for centuries-old Roman recipes, Pierluigi is as beloved as ever. Begin with one of the specialties: pasta e fagioli (pasta and beans) or minestra broccoli (broccoli soup). Follow up with spaghetti con frutti di mare (spaghetti and seafood sauce), and then proceed to pesce al sale (fish baked in a salt shell) or calamari e gamberi fritti (fried squid and shrimp). Be sure to dine outside in the warmer months—the location is beautiful. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Piazza de' Ricci 144 (between Piazza Farnese and the Vatican), Rome. Phone 06-686-1302. http://www.pierluigi.it.
Address
Piazza de' Ricci 144
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-686-1302
http://www.pierluigi.it
Quattro Mori
When Pope Benedict XVI was still Cardinal Ratzinger, he often walked five minutes from the Vatican to enjoy Rome's best Sardinian seafood: The scallops, scampi and swordfish are delicious. Try the pasta served with bottarga, a rich and intensely savory roe of either tuna or gray mullet. Very charming service and now almost always full. Daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via Santa Maria alle Fornaci 8a, Rome. Phone 06-639-0195. http://www.ristoranteiquattromori.com.
Address
Via Santa Maria alle Fornaci 8a
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-639-0195
http://www.ristoranteiquattromori.com
Ristorante da Vincenzo
The friendly service at this seafood restaurant is surpassed only by the quality of the food. Begin the evening with a Sicilian or Sardinian dry white wine from Vincenzo's well-stocked cellar. Order the antipasto misto al mare (assorted marinated seafood). For the first course, ask for penne or linguine all'astice (short or long pasta with lobster sauce). Indecisive gourmands can request an assaggio (sampler) of at least three kinds. For the main course, choose between mazzancole alla griglia (grilled king prawns), rombo e patate al forno (baked turbot with potatoes) and spigola in acqua pazza (sea bass boiled in seasoned water). Let the server fillet the fish for you. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations necessary. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Via Castelfidardo 4 (near the Baths of Diocletian), Rome. Phone 06-484-596. http://www.ristorantidiroma.com/davincenzo/homeeng.htm.
Address
Via Castelfidardo 4
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-484-596
http://www.ristorantidiroma.com/davincenzo/homeeng.htm
Siciliainbocca
Sicilians prepare the best fish in Italy and this charming restaurant showcases that skill. The fish arrives fresh daily from the channel between the island and Tunisia. Try the involtini di pesce spada (thin slices of swordfish wrapped around a traditional stuffing of raisins, pine nuts, bread crumbs and herbs) and one of the exquisite Sicilian wines from the cellar. Finish with cannoli or one of the other ricotta-based desserts. There is a second location in the Prati quarter on Via Faa di Bruno, and a third in Trastevere on Via Garibaldi. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Does not accept Diners Club. Via Flaminia 390 (above Piazza del Popolo), Rome. Phone 06-324-0187. http://www.siciliainboccaweb.com.
Address
Via Flaminia 390
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-324-0187
http://www.siciliainboccaweb.com
-STEAK HOUSES
Al Girarrosto Toscano
This steak house in the Prati area specializes in steak fiorentina (prepared as in Florence), as well as other Tuscan dishes. It serves fried chicken and boasts that its meatballs were one of Fellini's favorites. Wide selection of wines. Finish off the meal with one of the desserts made in-house. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via Germanico 58/60 (a few blocks north of Piazza Risorgimento, near the Vatican), Rome. Phone 06-3972-5717. http://www.ristorantedaltoscano.it.
Address
Via Germanico 58/60
Rome, Italy 192
Phone 06-3972-5717
http://www.ristorantedaltoscano.it
Caminetto
Great steaks (said to be a favorite among Italy's soccer players), wine and atmosphere, along with light Italian cooking. Family-run since 1959, this restaurant has excellent service, a rarity in even the best restaurants in Rome. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Viale dei Parioli 89, Rome. Phone 06-808-3946. http://www.caminettoroma.com.
Address
Viale dei Parioli 89
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-808-3946
http://www.caminettoroma.com
Da Tullio
This restaurant has been run by the same family since 1950. No one treats prime beef better than Tuscans, such is the case with the family that runs this homey and rustic, but stylish, restaurant just off the Piazza Barberini. Highlights include the long pasta dishes with truffle shavings or wild mushroom and parsley sauce. Cooked over an open fire, the tagliata (sliced beef grilled and garnished with basil and Parmesan cheese) will satisfy any craving for top-grade, aged meat. Superbly executed fish and seafood entrees are distinguished as well. Local gourmands crowd this place. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via San Nicola da Tolentino 26, Rome. Phone 06-474-5560. http://www.tullioristorante.it.
Address
Via San Nicola da Tolentino 26
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-474-5560
http://www.tullioristorante.it
Girarrosto Fiorentino
For decades, this steak house has been a solid favorite for dining just off the Via Veneto. It specializes in Florentine steaks and an assortment of fish and pasta. Great atmosphere for dining in the cooler months. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Via Sicilia 46, Rome. Phone 06-4288-0660. http://www.girarrostofiorentino.it.
Address
Via Sicilia 46
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-4288-0660
http://www.girarrostofiorentino.it
-OTHER OPTIONS
Gelato (ice cream) has a long tradition in Italy, and it still resembles the treats Michelangelo and Bernini might have enjoyed. A gelateria that calls its product artigianale crafts its wares in-house. Whether you take your gelato after a long walk in the blazing heat, after dinner or at 2 am between visits to bars, there's no better way to satisfy a sweet tooth.
Caffe Giolitti
The air-conditioned, pink- and green-marbled gelateria, with its fin-de-siecle ambience, offers a nice break from the busy streets outside. There's better gelato to be found, but this is Rome's most famous. Try zabaione or the champagne ice cream, or enjoy its excellent tea or coffee. Daily 7 am-1:30 am. Via Uffici del Vicario 40, Rome. Phone 06-699-1243. http://www.giolitti.it.
Address
Via Uffici del Vicario 40
Rome, Italy 186
Phone 06-699-1243
http://www.giolitti.it
Da Quinto Gelateria
This small ice-cream shop is right next to Piazza Navona, on a street full of Rome's best nightspots. Day or night, the line to buy ice cream flows out the door and tends to obstruct even the foot traffic along the road. The wait is well worth it, however. Many claim it's the best in Rome. Try the affogato (ice cream drowned in brandy or rum). Open 10 am to very late, almost until dawn in the summer. Via di Tor Millina 15, Rome. Phone 06-686-5657.
Address
Via di Tor Millina 15
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-686-5657
Gelateria della Palma
This colorful, chaotic gelateria, just behind the Pantheon, is always full of locals and tourists. The taste of the ice cream is exceptionally good, but this place is better known for its quantity of flavors. There are more than 20 flavors of chocolate alone and hundreds of others. Try kiwi, watermelon, wild strawberry, limoncello, sesame seed or honey. Open 8:30 am-midnight (sometimes later, depending on how busy it is). Via della Maddalena 19-23, Rome. Phone 06-688-06-752. http://www.dellapalma.it.
Address
Via della Maddalena 19-23
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-688-06-752
http://www.dellapalma.it
Gelateria di San Crispino
It's not hard to find great ice cream in the eternal city, but this gelateria is a cut above, specializing in meringue ice creams and fresh fruit sorbets. There are several branches, including locations at Fiumcino airport and near the Pantheon, but this is the original near the Trevi Fountain. Open daily noon-12:30 am (until 1:30 am Friday and Saturday). Via della Panetteria 42, Rome. Phone 06-679-3924. http://www.ilgelatodisancrispino.it.
Address
Via della Panetteria 42
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-679-3924
http://www.ilgelatodisancrispino.it
Practical Information
-GEOSTATS
Passport/Visa Requirements: Citizens of Canada and the U.S. need only a passport. Check travel document requirements with your carrier before departing.
Population: 3,357,000.
Languages: Italian. English is widely spoken, if not perfectly, at least enough to communicate basic information.
Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic).
Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+1 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October.
Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.
Telephone Codes: 39, country code; 06,city code;
-CURRENCY EXCHANGE
Banks, though ubiquitous, are concentrated on main drags such as the Via Veneto, Piazza San Silvestro and Via del Corso. ATMs, called bancomats, are available 24 hours a day outside almost all banks and at many other locations. They are the preferred way of getting cash, because they do not usually add the 2.5%-4% fees that credit cards charge for advances.
Cards with the Cirrus symbol are accepted almost anywhere. To change cash and traveler's checks, banks charge a commission of about 3 euros. Post offices charge a fee of 3.13 euros. Exchange rates are generally better at downtown banks and exchanges (ufficio di cambio) than at the airports or hotels. Cambio hours are generally 8:30 am-7:30 pm. At the airport, try to avoid changing more money than you may need to get into town. You'll also find 24-hour automated exchange machines dotting the city for extra convenience. One way of avoiding most charges is to get a Visa or MasterCard preloaded with euros. It also minimizes the chance of loss through robbery.
Bank hours are generally Monday-Friday 8:30 am-1:30 pm and 2:30-4 pm (with some variation), but some of the larger banks are open throughout the day. In winter, banks often have reduced hours.
-TAXES
Hotels in Rome now charge an occupancy tax of 1 euro-3 euros per night, depending on the level of accommodation.
A value-added tax (VAT, or IVA in Italy), anywhere from 4%-23%, can be refunded to non-European Union visitors. The amount added varies from country to country within the EU, and not all stores participate. Check first or look for the sign in the store window. In addition, only luxury goods, such as clothing and wine, are eligible. Refunds usually amount to about 13%-16% of the purchase price.
Present three things to the refund officer at the airport before departure: your purchase, the receipt and the customs division's stamped refund form (which must be picked up at the place of purchase). Without these, your refund will be denied. Note that only unused articles are eligible for a refund: If the article looks used, you won't get your money back. If everything is in order, the IVA refund officer will give you a final form to be mailed. (Ideally, jump through all these hoops before checking your bags, and have your purchases in an easy-to-reach place.)
Some larger stores have a streamlined process: They handle most of the paperwork and then mail the refund to you, usually minus a fee. Private IVA refund services, located at the airport, also pay immediately minus a fee, usually a percentage of the refund. This is also possible at refund centers in the shopping district of Rome's Centro Storico and other large Italian cities. The two largest such services are Global Refund and Cashback; you'll see their signs in store windows. For more information, check Global Refund's Web site, http://www.globalrefund.com. It provides information, a tax calculator and a location map, showing its refund offices in 34 countries and all major exit points in Italy (airports, harbors and roads).
-TIPPING
The culture of tipping in Europe is considerably different from that in North America. For the most part, Italians do not tip, as waiters and housekeeping staff are paid a fair wage. At times a service charge (servizio) is tacked onto restaurant bills. Don't confuse this with the cover (coperta), which is a charge for bread and table settings. If the service charge is included, a tip is not necessary. If service has been excellent, a tip of 1 euro per person is greatly appreciated.
Tipping in taxis is not obligatory, but most people round up to the next euro.
-WEATHER
May and June are the best times to visit, as far as the weather goes. Spring weather can be quite changeable, especially in March and April, with sunny skies in the morning and storms in the afternoon. May and June can be very pleasant, but temperatures often climb above 85 F/30 C in July and August. High humidity (around 85%) causes most locals to flee the city toward the end of summer. Fall remains sunny, with October and November quite mild but sometimes rainy. September-November is a nice time to visit, the weather's good for touring around, and you'll miss the early-summer crowds. Winters are generally mild, with January lows around 40 F/5 C. Rome receives snow about once every five years, and when it does, public transport tends to stop, and getting around the city can be difficult.
-WHAT TO WEAR
As a rule, Italians are very conscious about clothes and fabric, and they have a highly developed sense of style. Casual dress is fine for most occasions, but a suit and tie are recommended for business meetings. Jackets for men and smart attire for women are wise for dining out. The only locals in shorts and T-shirts are construction workers or people playing soccer in the park; women rarely wear shorts. Bare feet are taboo except at the seaside or swimming pools.
When visiting the Vatican or any major cathedral, men should wear long pants and women should wear skirts or long pants. Sleeveless shirts and shorts are not permitted in churches or the Vatican, including the Vatican museums. Use a large scarf to cover exposed shoulders if no other covering is available.
-TELEPHONE
If you're calling a number in Rome from outside Italy, first dial your country's international access code and then Italy's country code, 39, followed by the city code, 06. Within Italy or Rome, you'll need to dial 06 and then the local number. Mobile numbers begin with 3 and have no city code.
Public phones are getting harder and harder to find (cell phones have taken over the country). Most accept only phone cards issued by Telecom Italia, the state-run company. Purchase these at newsstands, tobacconists (marked by a blue or black sign with a large white T), post offices and many bars. Ask for a carta telefonica. Tear the corner off, insert it into the phone, and dial away. International call cards can be purchased at most tobacconists and bars. Most offer about 300 minutes' worth of talk time for 5 euros. Actual cost-per-minute is determined by which country you are calling. Call the switchboard number listed on the calling card from any phone and they'll connect you to your desired number.
Cell phone coverage is variable. Don't expect to get any signal whatsoever when inside ancient buildings or ruins, and most restaurants in the city center have limited signals indoors. You can tell how good a restaurant's signal is by the number of people standing outside talking on their phones.
If you are traveling for an extended period of time and would like an Italian number, TIM and Vodafone stores, located throughout the country, sell SIM cards. Visitors can pre-purchase cell phones and SIM cards online at http://www.italycellphone.com. SIM cards are compatible with most unlocked cell phones. All SIM cards have to be registered with the government before use, so visitors need to present their passports to purchase them.
-INTERNET ACCESS
Rome is very well connected, and it offers many free or inexpensive Wi-Fi hot spots. Internet cafes have become common in the center of the city. Many are extremely small, with no more than five computers, but prices tend to be very reasonable. If you're looking for ambience, check the centro areas around the Pantheon, Campo dei Fiori or Via Veneto.
Wi-Fi hot spots are now in major parks such as Villa Borghese and Villa Pamphili and in almost all central areas. Wi-Fi is free with registration; all you need is a cell phone to authenticate registration (http://www.romawireless.com). If you travel with a laptop and need Internet access immediately upon arrival in Rome, the McDonald's restaurant in Termini Station offers free Wi-Fi. Various pubs, restaurants and cafes also offer free Internet access. Just look for signs in windows.
-MAIL & PACKAGE SERVICES
Most tobacconists, in addition to the post office, sell stamps. If you're mailing something important, skip the post office and use a private delivery service. FedEx, DHL and UPS all have outlets throughout the city. Mailboxes Etc. also has a handful of shops, and it handles courier and mail services.
Poste Italiane
All post offices accept international parcels, but packaging requirements apply. Padded envelopes are the safest bet. Boxes should be cleanly wrapped and sealed. Priority mail (posta prioritaria) and express mail (posta celere) have sped up Italy's infamously slow mail. The most central post office is Ufficio Postale di Roma Centro. Monday-Friday 8:30 am-6:30 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-1 pm. Piazza di San Silvestro 20, Rome.
Address
Piazza di San Silvestro 20
Rome, Italy
Vatican Post Office
Quicker and with more efficient service than its Italian counterpart, it also has multilingual clerks. Only mail with Vatican stamps is accepted. The Vatican Post Office may close without notice because of increased security for special ceremonies. Monday-Friday 8:30 am-6:30 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-1 pm. Piazza San Pietro, Vatican City.
Address
Piazza San Pietro
Vatican City, Italy
-NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES
Il Messaggero, La Repubblica and Corriere della Sera are Italian-language dailies that cover metropolitan news. Another local daily is Il Tempo. Il Sole 24 Ore is the main daily business newspaper.
Newsstands in the city center stock the International Herald Tribune, USA Today, The Wall Street Journal Europe, The Financial Times and many international magazines. British newspapers and some U.S. dailies are available at newsstands in Piazza di Spagna, in Piazza San Silvestro, on Via Veneto near the Excelsior Hotel, at Termini Station and at the airport.
Wanted in Rome is a bimonthly English-language publication sold at all newsstands. It has entertainment listings among other bits of information (http://www.wantedinrome.com). The section "What's On and Where to Go" is particularly useful. See also the multitude of entertainment options listed and advertised (in Italian) in "Trovaroma," the Thursday supplement published by La Repubblica and available throughout the city. The most complete listings are in Roma C'e, which has an English-language insert. Time Out Rome is also available from newsstands and online. http://www.timeout.com/rome.
-TRANSPORTATION
Rome's downtown streets are narrow, scooters zip by everywhere, and Roman drivers are far from cautious. Before renting a car and braving the chaos, know that parking is difficult and that very few garages are available.
We recommend that visitors walk as much as possible, nothing in the Centro Storico is more than a 30- to 40-minute stroll away. Taxis, buses and the metro can fill most gaps.
-AIR
Rome's main airport is Leonardo da Vinci, commonly called Fiumicino (FCO), about 16 mi/35 km southwest of Rome. Though quite large, with two of its three terminals dedicated to international travel, it manages to avoid confusion with clearly marked signs and a generous number of information booths, as well as interactive touch-screen kiosks that provide timetables, airport maps and more. Most U.S. destinations leave from Terminal 5. There is no shortage of ATMs, duty-free shops or restaurants, and there's a 24-hour cash exchange. For airport information, call 39-06-65951. http://www.adr.it.
A second airport, Ciampino, mainly welcomes international charters and budget airlines 8 mi/13 km southeast of Rome. Small but friendly, it offers a pint-sized selection of services normally found in the larger airports: a bank, post office, cash exchange (usually closing around 9 pm), a couple of information booths and a lounge. In addition, it has a smattering of snack bars and duty-free shops. The airport is being expanded, and though this doesn't affect flights or service within the airport, it will in the future mean quicker check-in times and controls, and the possibility of flights to more destinations. Phone 39-39-06-65951. http://www.adr.it.
*Connecting Transportation
Best way:
Trains run approximately every 30 minutes, between 6:30 am and 11:30 pm, from Fiumicino's train station either directly to Termini Station (about 30 minutes) or, on a different line, from a dozen stops in the city, including Stazione Trastevere, Stazione Ostiense and Statione Tiburtina (40 minutes).
The trains from Termini start at 5:52 am and run until 10:52 pm (from Fiumicino to Termini they run 6:37 am-11:37 pm). These are called the Leonardo Express. They leave from tracks 27 and 28, and they work even during rail strikes. The local trains that pass through the city center leave at uneven intervals (every 15 minutes early and at the end of the business day, every 40 minutes during the day and every hour and 20 minutes late at night). This train also leaves the city and heads to points north as far as Orte in northern Lazio.
The Leonardo Express costs 14 euros, and the local train through the city is 8 euros. Purchase tickets from station windows, vending machines or the newsstand. Don't forget to validate the ticket in a yellow machine before boarding. (It is no longer permitted to use a pen to cancel the ticket. If you arrive too late to cancel the ticket in the machine, have the conductor on the train validate your ticket.) http://www.trenitalia.it.
Ciampino's public transport links are trickier. COTRAL buses connect to the vast Anagnina Station, where you can then catch Metro Linea A to the central train hub, Termini (1 euro). http://www.metroroma.it and http://www.cotralspa.it.
Buses run from Termini to Ciampino (the town), 6:37 am-11:45 pm and the reverse route 4:50 am-9:45 pm. The route takes 40 minutes. The cost is 4.50 euros one way.
From the airport to the metro stop Anagnina buses leave every 20 minutes and cost 1.20 euros. A 1-euro metro ticket is enough to reach the center of Rome.
From the airport to the Ciampino train station, buses run 5:20 am-9:50 pm (occasionally there is a bus at 10:40 pm and 11:35 pm); the reverse route runs 5:50 am-10:20 pm. It takes five minutes and the cost is 1.20 euros.
From Roma Termini to the Ciampino train station, trains run in both directions hourly at a cost of 1.30 euros. The trip takes 12 minutes. Hours change periodically, but they are generally 6 am-10 pm.
*Other options:
COTRAL night buses run 1:15 am-7 am (4.50 euros or 7 euros onboard). Fiumicino's stop is outside the arrivals hall. The bus ride to and from Termini takes around 30 minutes. Toll-free 800-174-471. http://www.cotralspa.it.
A taxi takes 45 minutes and costs at least 30 euros, plus 2 euros per bag, to destinations in the city center (always use the official white and yellow cabs at the stand; avoid the unauthorized touts). There is a surcharge of 10 euros 10 pm-7 am. Be forewarned that drivers tack on surcharges for almost anything, but regulations have helped tremendously. All legal charges are printed on a white card in multiple languages inside each licensed taxi. Beware of taxis from the city of Fiumicino, which are allowed to pick up passengers at the airport but charge an additional 20 euros for the trip to Rome.
A chauffeured shuttle service between Fiumicino Airport and your hotel costs approximately 40 euros. Book through one of the many booths in the terminal.
Many major hotels have courtesy vans. Let the concierge know your arrival time and flight details prior to traveling.
Branches of major rental car agencies have desks at the airport.
-CAR
Because public transportation is so good (and because traffic is so difficult to navigate), we strongly advise against driving within Rome. For excursions, take the train out of the city first and then rent the car: The GRA (the freeway that encircles Rome) and its exits are notoriously bewildering for tourists and locals alike. Driving is on the right. There is no shortage of car rental agencies at the airport, train station or in town.
The minimum legal age for driving in Italy is 18. The speed limit in Rome, unless otherwise posted, is 50 kph. The police are very strict at enforcing the speed limit and blood alcohol limit (0.05 mg).
Most rental companies enforce a minimum age of 21 for renters, and drivers younger than 25 have to pay prohibitively expensive insurance surcharges. Similarly, those age 70 or older may find difficulty renting a vehicle and should always make arrangements before arriving.
-PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
The public transit system includes buses, trams and metro subway trains. Tickets are valid on all three forms of transportation, good for only one trip on the metro but unlimited transfers on buses and trams for 75 minutes after the time stamped on the ticket.
Buy tickets for many buses at tobacconists (marked with a black or blue sign with a large T), bars and newspaper kiosks, as well as at the green ATAC (the city transport authority) booths located on all the major squares. A single ticket is 1 euro and must be stamped in a validation machine onboard. Multi-ride passes are available for a day (4 euros), three days (11 euros) and seven days (16 euros).
The public transit Web site helps plan routes. Insert the starting destination address, and the site provides a printable page, complete with a map, of all possible transfers and (where applicable) alternate routes. http://www.atac.roma.it.
ATAC Buses
In general, this is a good way to get around, but familiarize yourself with the system first. Electric buses 116, 117 and 119 are a visitor's friend because they ply the pedestrian areas of Piazza del Popolo, Via del Corso and the Centro Storico, hitting the major sights along the way. Pickpockets operate on all buses, particularly on those around the tourist areas. Be aware of your wallet and bags at all times. Bus service is generally suspended between midnight and 5:30 am, except for autobus notturna (night bus) service, these buses run about every 30 minutes, and the hub is Piazza Venezia. Stops with night bus services are indicated with a large owl, and the buses are marked with an N. They don't necessarily slow down at the stops, so flag ostentatiously. Phone 06-57003 for information.
Address
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-57003
Metro
There are two Metropolitana (subway) lines. The A line runs from Battistini to Anagnina, crossing the city from west to southeast. The B line runs from Laurentina (near EUR, south of Centro Storico) to Rebibbia and crosses the city from south to southeast. The two lines intersect at Stazione Termini. Stations are marked above ground by a large red M sign. Work is under way on the new C line, but progress is slow. The subway runs daily 5:30 am-11:30 pm, and until 1:30 am Friday and Saturday. http://www.atac.roma.it.
Address
Rome, Italy
http://www.atac.roma.it
Trams
These lines are the best ones for visitors: Tram 8 connects Centro Storico to Trastevere before terminating at Villa Pamphili; Tram 19 runs from the Vatican around Villa Borghese; and Tram 3 runs from Villa Borghese to Stazione Trastevere, stopping en route at the Colosseum and Stazione Ostiense. Trams run 5 am-midnight, except for Tram 8, which runs until 3 am on Friday and Saturday.
Address
Rome, Italy
-SHIP
Cruise ships dock at the port of Civitavecchia, a port city approximately 65 mi/105 km north of Rome. This rapidly growing port is one of the most popular destinations for ferry travelers in the Mediterranean. Popular destinations from the port include Sardinia, Palermo, Genoa and Barcelona.
The port itself is not very attractive. It is enormous; from the ferries to the port entrance is half a mile/kilometer, and shuttles are available. The train station is another 10-minute walk. Trains leave for Rome's Termini Station every 20 minutes and take about one hour and 15 minutes. Buses that leave from the train station also go to Rome. Trains do not run direct to Fiumicino Airport; travelers must go first to Rome, and transfer trains. Total travel time is at least two hours. Taxis are not always available. Private shuttle companies take travelers from Civitavecchia to Rome or the Fiumicino Airport. Popular companies include Rome Airport Transfers and Airport Connection Service.
Cruise ships also dock at Naples, about two hours south of Rome. This grand, sprawling port also welcomes ferries (traghetti) and hydrofoils (aliscafi). Routes web the Tyrrhenian Sea, linking Naples to Sicily, Sardinia, Capri, Ischia, Procida, the Pontine and Aeolian Islands, as well as international destinations such as Tunisia, Croatia and Greece. Naples and Rome are very well-connected by bus, train and even plane, but the train is best and takes less than two hours.
-TAXI
Official taxis are white, carry a Commune di Roma plaque (inside the rear door on the left side), have meters and operate 24 hours. Cabdrivers are not accustomed to being hailed and may not stop. Instead, go to a taxi stand (marked with green signs) or book one by phone: 06-0609 (centralized service), 06-3570, 06-4157 or 06-4994.
Different fares are charged for travel outside and inside the GRA, a ring road around the city, inside and outside the ZTL (a limited traffic area in the center of the city) and for different times of day. Fares vary depending on traffic; fares start at 2.80 euros, but are 2.50 euros higher after 10 pm and on Sunday, and 3 euros higher when the cab leaves from Termini. For taxis booked by phone, the rate is charged from the time the car is dispatched. Sometimes you'll be charged for luggage. Most taxi drivers don't speak English, so it's a good idea to have the destination address written down.
-TRAIN
Ferrovie dello Stato
The Italian national rail service is fairly cheap and reliable. Rome's primary stations are Termini (the main hub, connected to both metro lines), Trastevere (on the rail line between Termini and the airport) and Ostiense (in southern Rome on Metro Line B, with connections to Ostia and Naples). Termini has easy-to-use interactive kiosks where the traveler can choose a destination and print a ticket (reserve a seat on the faster, more expensive services, such as Eurostar).
Termini is the source of all schedule and train information as well, however frustrating and inefficient employees can be. Take with you plenty of patience and time. Be sure to validate your ticket using the yellow machines on the platform before boarding a train. Phone 892-021. You can also plan your trip and book tickets online. http://www.trenitalia.it.
Address
Rome, Italy
http://www.trenitalia.it
-TOURIST OFFICES
Chiamaroma is the new information line for the city of Rome, with service in English, and is open 24 hours a day. From any local phone, call 06-0608. Rome's official tourism Web site has up-to-date details for all offices. http://turismoroma.it.
Tourist Information Board
Located inside Termini Station near track 24, the office provides maps, the helpful A Guest In Rome guide, the Roma Pass and other useful information. The tourist kiosk located outside of Termini Station provides bus information exclusively. Daily 9 am-6 pm. Termini Station, Rome.
Address
Termini Station
Rome, Italy
Tourist Information Kiosks
Locations include: Fiumicino International Arrivals Terminal B, Termini station next to track 24, Castel Sant'Angelo, Via del Corso, the Imperial Forums, Piazza di Spagna, Piazza Navona, Via Nazionale (at Piazza delle Esposizione), Piazza Sonnino in Trastevere, Santa Maria Maggiore, the Trevi Fountain and Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano. Operators at the call center speak four languages. Daily 9 am-7 pm. Phone 06-0608. http://www.060608.it.
Address
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-0608
http://www.060608.it